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| The History of a Man... the History of a Group... |
 PATRICK ALES – THE ORIGINS OF PHYTO HAIR CARE
In 1946, Patrick ALES became interested in hairdressing after taking a summer job in the profession. He began as a dispatch rider before being accepted as an apprentice at the Louis GERVAIS salon on the Champs Elysees in Paris.
Patrick ALES immediately became interested in the science of hair care, noticing how the harsh chemicals in the products of the day damaged hair and realising how little medical research there was into hair and scalp treatments. He discussed his feelings with herbalists whose knowledge of the health benefits of plants encouraged him to imagine a line of plant-based hair care products. He even considered abandoning his career as a hairdresser, despite the reputation that he had built up in the profession by this time, to study to become a doctor, or more specifically a ‘hair doctor’. However, faced with the scale of the task, the long years of study, and his responsibilities towards his family, Patrick ALES finally decided to continue his career as an internationally renowned hairdresser.
At the time there were no products or brands using plants as the active ingredient for hair and scalp treatments. Everything needs to be invented and created. Patrick ALES had embarked into totally unexplored territory, with no markers to go by or established paths to follow. His ideas were generally received with incredulity and scepticism.
Day after day, associating dedication and patience, and with no commercial objective to start off with, Patrick ALES experimented with formulae in his garage, implementing the results of years of research into the beneficial properties of plants in hair care.
The result was the launch, in the sixties, of HUILE D’ALES, PHYTO 7, PHYTOPOLLEINE, PHYTOPOLLEINE PLUS, the PHYTODEFRISANT hair balm, PHYTOSAPONARIA G25, PHYTOMOUSSE S88, PHYTONEUTRE, HENNE NEUTRE MOUSSANT, and PHYTOCAPUCINE. These products were initially designed as hair care treatments for clients of the Patrick ALES salon. Today, several decades on, a large proportion of the turnover of PHYTOSOLBA comes from the products created by Patrick ALES during this period because of their exceptional quality.
Soon dermatologists began to take an interest in Patrick ALES products, and wanted to prescribe them to their patients. Clients at the Patrick ALES salon were also asking to buy the products.
In 1967, Patrick ALES registered the PHYTOTHERATHRIE trademark (phyto = plants, thera = care, thrie (from trixos) = hair).
From the outset of production all the bottles were made of glass, the tubes were made of metal, and the ampoules were sealed. The use of preservatives was also kept to a minimum. Patrick ALES had instinctively adopted an ecological stance, long before it became fashionable to do so.
The next step for Patrick ALES was to approach large companies with his new inventions but the industrialists were not convinced by the concept, believing that the future was in chemistry.
Nevertheless, given the continued demand from dermatologists and in response to the insistence of his, often famous, clients, Patrick ALES decided to set up his own company to produce his products.
In 1969, he created the PHYTOSOLBA Laboratories.
To begin with the PHYTO products were made in Patrick ALES’s garage, often in the evening or during the night, with the help of his wife and sometimes even his children Sylvie, Romain and Patricia. Some mornings he would make several trips in his old car, carrying a single 50kg container on each outing, to transport the 250kg of Phyto 7 cream that his wife Jacquie ALES had prepared in 5kg batches.
At that point PHYTOSOLBA had only one employee and no business premises. The turnover in the first year of activity was only 20,000 euros.
Nevertheless the pharmacists established near the Saint-Louis hospital were supplying the products prescribed by the dermatologists and some herbalists and dieticians were also selling the products.
The reputation of the company grew and it soon became necessary to move to more suitable premises. A handful of offices located at 99 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré in the 8th arrondissement of Paris were transformed into the Phytotherathrie training centre, and also the new address of the PHYTOSOLBA head office, as it still is today. A small sales force was also formed.
Patrick ALES continued to strive to further improve his products and gradually surrounded himself with a team of scientists, setting up a program of research into innovative plant based formulae.
He quickly realised the importance of establishing scientific proof of the effects and qualities of his formulae. This was a completely new idea at the time and no scientific studies existed for hair care products. So, in 1974, Professor VACHON from Saint-Louis hospital conducted the first clinical study, which confirmed the beneficial effects of the active ingredients of PHYTOPOLLEINE. Since then, Patrick ALES has worked and continues to work with the French National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS) and the Academy of Sciences, as well as numerous colleges and universities.
Today, over 200 clinical studies, carried out by independent laboratories, doctors, and hospitals have tested the different products of the group. Many patents and trade names have also been registered.
THE DEVELOPMENT OF PLANT-BASED HAIR CARE IN THE GROUP
Patrick ALES continued his pioneering work, coming up with many more product innovations:
He created shampoos made with plant-based foaming agents (PHYTOPANAMA with panama wood) and other natural ingredients (PHYTOSSOUL with rhassoul clay).
In 1974, he created a new concept: PHYTOPLAGE, the first sun protection hair care product, with the now famous bottle in the shape of an oil burette.
In 1982, PHYTOPHANERE was released onto the market as the first dietary supplement for strengthening hair and nails.
Patrick ALES also worked tirelessly to invent a natural anti hair loss product that would be effective without causing side effects. The result was PHYTOPOLLEINE PLUS (1970), PHYTOCYANE (1992), PHYTOAXIL (1998), and finally PHYTOTRIXIL (2003).
In 1995, he created the SECRET PROFESSIONNEL hair care range for hairdressing salons.
In 1997, to give a new dimension to the group, Patrick ALES acquired the DUCASTEL Laboratory, specialist in the manufacture of technical hair products, especially hair dyes, mainly aimed at the market of professional hairdressers.
1998 saw the launch of PHYTOSPECIFIC, initially in the North American market. This was the first top-of-the-range line of ethnic hair care products with a high content of natural ingredients, specially formulated for tightly curled or frizzy hair. Once again this was a major innovation. The exclusive formula of the PHYTORELAXER hair-relaxing product avoided the use of certain particularly harsh chemicals. In July 2004, PHYTOSPECIFIC had the honour of being chosen to sponsor the first UNESCO Global Congress for Black Women Leaders.
In 1998 the PHYTOSOLBA Company launched KYDRA, a professional hair colour product line for hairdressing salons, offering over 170 different references.
In the same year, a UNIVERS PHYTO centre was opened in Paris, proposing hair care treatments and selling the products to the public.
In 2003, PHYTOCOLOR, a new range of home hair colouring kits became available over the counter in chemists, (14 shades, formulated with high concentrations of natural dye from plants, free from the most allergenic chemical colourings). Feedback from users about the quality of these products has been exceptionally positive.
In 2006, PHYTO launched PHYTOPROGENIUM Intelligent Shampoo. A new innovation in haircare, PHYTOPROGENIUM is infused with Progenium, an effective ingredient that protects the scalp's ecosystem and enhances the hair's natural beauty. It effectively treats the scalp's ecosystem by preserving the natural protective shield and reduces the presence of harmful germs. Progenium was later added to the formula's of Phytolactum, Phytopanama and Phytoapaisant, that became PHYTOLACTUM+, PHYTOPANAMA+ et PHYTOAPAISANT+.
In 2007, PHYTODENSIUM Masque is launched. PHYTODENSIUM is a line of 3 anti-aging haircare treatments that work by injecting strength and vitality into aging hair.
In 2008, PHYTO 7, the daily hair cream with 7 plants, celebrates its 40th birthday in a golden tube. PHYTOPROGENIUM, the intelligent shampoo, became available in a new environment-friendly packaging : recyclable, ecological, environment-friendly, original and practical...Phytoprogenium's new packaging is all that !
THE DEVELOPMENT OF LIERAC IN THE ALES GROUP
In 1979, Patrick ALES integrated a small cosmetics laboratory, the LIERAC Laboratory, whose activity was based on a small range of plant-based products. The first decision taken by Patrick ALES was to increase the plant-content in the formulae, to use tubes made of aluminium and glass ampoules, and to remove most of the preservatives used. These ethical products still appear in the LIERAC catalogue today with the formulae modified by Patrick ALES.
Patrick ALES soon wanted to incorporate the innovative use of high performance active ingredients into new LIERAC products. So 1988 saw the creation of the product duo of LIERACTIV capsules and cream, both featuring a high concentration of anti-free radicals extracted from the skin of the grape seed. LIERAC was the pioneering name in the concept of beauty capsules.
Since then, the fame of LIERAC products has spread thanks to the proven efficiency of its promises via research and tests.
In 2004, the LIERAC Laboratories created a derma-cosmetic research award to reward the work of scientists. The first award was attributed in December 2004.
In 2005, LIERAC is being launched in the USA and CANADA.
In 2006, the LIERAC Laboratories launched HYDROFILIA, a line of two treatments specially formulated for dry and atopic skin, that contain a moisturizing and lipid-replenishing complex for immediate comfort and prolonged hydration. 2006 also saw the launch of two innovative serums: DERIDIUM RESTORING SERUM, an intensive treatment serum containing high concentrations of plant extracts (42%) and CONCENTRE MESOLIFT, a nutritive and revitalizing serum containing a 15% concentration of a cocktail of vitamins, minerals and hyaluronic acid. LIERAC HOMME, a skincare line made-to-measure for the most demanding men, was also launched in 2006.
In 2007, the MAT-CHRONO line is launched. Enriched with moisturizing and instant-action mattifying agents, this line of 4 products was rewarded for its innovation, textures, effectiveness, packaging and communication.
In 2008, the LIERAC Laboratories unveil COMFORT PEEL, an ultra-comfortable, ‘high-tolerance’ cream containing high concentrations of new-generation hydroxy-acids for a genuine ‘new skin effect and BODY ACTIV, three exceptional body treatments.
PATRICK ALES AND PERFUME
CARON
Patrick ALES has always privileged the use of essential oils and natural and vegetal extracts in the formulation of his products and has worked with some of the largest suppliers of natural plant and perfume raw material suppliers. His team also included a perfume expert. Therefore it followed that in 1998 his group would integrate Parfums CARON, a major name in French perfumery known for prestigious scents such as POUR UN HOMME and FLEUR DE ROCAILLE, with an approach based on plants and authenticity that was perfectly in line with the philosophy of Patrick ALES.
In 2000, Patrick ALES inaugurated a CARON boutique in New York, situated at 675 Madison Avenue. By the end of the year a second CARON boutique was opened in Paris, at 90 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré, in the 8th arrondissement, opposite the Elysée presidential palace. It was also in this year that the new CARON perfume for men named L’ANARCHISTE was launched, as was LADY CARON (in the USA), in homage to America. Then came the re-launch of CARON Powder considered as the finest in the world, scented with Bulgarian Rose distilled in-house using a method that has remained a closely guarded secret since 1930.
2004 saw the launch of two new CARON perfumes MISS ROCAILLE and POUR UN HOMME parfum de peau, an alcohol free scent for men.
In 2005, CARON, member of the Colbert Committee, is participating in the year-long celebration of Chinese culture and creation organised by the Colbert Committee, with an exhibition in Shanghai in October 2005.
In 2006, eager to share its passion for natural ingredients, CARON created L'EAU DE REGLISSE, a refreshing, tender eau de toilette with Liquorice, blended from an unexpected combination of freshness and woodiness, whose secret is known only to the Nose of CARON, its Master perfumer.
In 2007, CARON unveiled a Baccarat limited edition of its infamous TABAC BLOND fragrance.
In 2008, CARON chose Sébastien CHABAL, the famous French rugby player, as the face of POUR UN HOMME.
DEVELOPMENT ON THE INTERNATIONAL STAGE
Today, the international market is responsible for over 60% of the company’s sales of products from all the different brands.
The group has established nine subsidiaries around the world: in the USA (New-York – 1989), Germany (Frankfurt - 1991), Italy (Milan – 1996), Belgium (Brussels – 1997), the UK (London – 1998), Canada (Montreal – 2001), Spain (Madrid – 2004), Poland (Warsaw – 2005) and Portugal (Porto - 2008).
The products are also commercialised in many other countries worldwide by local distributors.
EVOLUTION OF THE GROUP
Every year since the creation of PHYTOSOLBA in 1969, Patrick ALES has reinvested the company’s profits.
In 1988, Patrick ALES united the different activities of his group, that had until then been spread out in various premises in Paris and the suburbs, at one site in Bezons (Val d’Oise), near the La Défense business district in Paris. Today this is still the industrial, commercial and administrative centre of the group.
In 1995, given the continued success of the group’s products, Patrick ALES decided to create the PHYTO-LIERAC holding company.
In 1996, 20% of the capital of the PHYTO-LIERAC holding company is introduced into the Second Market of the Paris Stock Exchange.
In 1997, a large storage and delivery site is built near Cergy-Pontoise, in Saint-Ouen l’Aumône (Val d’Oise).
In October 1999, the group’s holding parent company PHYTO-LIERAC changes its name and becomes the ALES GROUPE.
More than 35 years after its humble beginnings, the ALES group is now an internationally renowned company. A lot has changed since the first products were turned out of Patrick ALES’s garage.
THE PATRICK ALES SALON
Patrick ALES has always been enjoyed and been proud of his work in the hairdressing world. The Patrick ALES Salon, which he created in 1965, still welcomes a glamorous clientele at 37 avenue Franklin Roosevelt in the 8th arrondissement of PARIS. However, it is not part of the ALES group.
PATRICK ALES – ‘LE TCHÔ’
In 2004, Patrick ALES published his book ‘LE TCHÔ – Demain viendra toujours’, (published by Cherche Midi) which recounts his origins in 142 ‘picaresque episodes’. Son of a Spanish Republican cabinetmaker, his family sought refuge in northern France when he was seven years old, where he became a ‘tchô’ (the local term for a small child). The book tells the eventful story of his life, focussing on his lucky breaks and his misfortunes, and the strange destiny that led him to mix with the rich and famous and to his love affair with plants.
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